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K-2 (King of the Mountain (8616m) 28,326 ft
K-2
from the year 1902 to
the year 1954, attempts to summit K-2 (also called Mount God win Austin)
were made by Italian and American climbers. The race was ended with the Italian
success of 1954, planed and carried out with military discipline by the Italian
professor Adroit Does, who had been scientific leader of a 1929 expedition
already The expedition plan itinerary DAY 1-2 Islamabad. Arrival
in Pakistan, briefing at Ministry of tourism / Alpine club DAY 3-5 Islamabad to Skardu (2280m). Ø
1st day Morning after
breakfast drive to Chilas, enroute visit the Taxila museum, Excavated
archeological sites of Birmound, Sirkap and impressive well preserved Julian
Monastery. after brief visit of the sites we continue drive to Chilas .stop for
lunch, at Besham we will continue our drive to Chilas along the Indus River
passing through the green valleys in Indus Kohistan, visit the 2nd
century Rock carvings at shatial and continue drive to Chilas. Overnight hotel Ø
2ndAfter breakfast leave
early 5;30 to Skardu its will tale 9 hrs driving, stop at Astake nala for lunch,
the place really impressive and joyful for short time relaxation. Ø
3rd
day Sightseeing. to Satpara lake Fort
of Baltistan over night in Hotel Full day for last minute preparations,
Overnight at K-2 Motel. All meals included. DAY 6 Askoli (3000m).
DAY 7-12 Askoli
to K-2 BC (4800M). Ø
Ist day After breakfast 7 hours
include lunch exciting trek which is considered the most challenging and
panoramic trek in the world. After crossing the huge Biafo glacier trek to camp
at Jhulla which s located next to the pulley cart river crossing point.
Overnight in tent (3025m) Ø
2nd day After early
breakfast, cross the river on the pulley cart and trek through the bushy forest
and sandy banks of Braldu river to the green campsite of Paiju. over night in
tent(3370m) Ø
3rd
day free day in Payu, small hiking
for acclimatization on Payu from
here you will viewed the King of the mountain & Broad peak Ø
4th day Trek down to the river bed and reach
the black snout of Baltoro glacier. After climbing the snout traverse to the
right side and climb up to the
moraine Trek along the moraine of Baltoro glacier to the last green campsite of
Urdukas situated on a steep slope over looking the glacier and surrounding peaks
including the famous Payu peak, Hulebia, Mustagh peak,
Trango Towers. Overnight in tent at Urdukas (4050m) Ø
5th day Descend to the
glacier and walk to the campsite of Goro located in the middle of the glacier.
Enroute you will see some of the most spectacular mountains in the world
including Masherbrum (7821m) and the first
glimpse of the magnificent Gasherbrum-4 located near Concordia. Over night in
tent at Goro 2, (4150m) chilling temperature
will welcome you it is better to
wear worm jumpers, Ø
6th day after breakfast trek to K-2 BC
situated at an alleviation 5100m,
Trek over ridges and around crevasses with beautiful view of Gasherbrum range and Broad
peak in front. Camp near confluence of Godwin Austin and Baltoro
glacier at Concordia which is surrounded by numerous mountains over seven
thousand meters and four peaks over eight thousand meters. This camp site has a
magnificent view of G-4 (7745m) Mustagh tower (7655m) K-2 (8611m), Broad peak (8047m)
& the Gasherbrum ring DAY 13-14 Rest
day at BC (5100m). In these days the climbers will prepare the
expedition gear (Fixed Rope, ice screw, snow bar) and high altitude food Day 15-52 climbing period. Camp 1 ( 6000m) Camp 1 is exposed but comparatively safe, with miniature or no history of avalanche hazard. The climb to C2 includes a 50-meter off-width crack called
House Chimney which is currently a spider web of old ropes. Camp 2 (66oom) Camp2 is sheltered by a huge rock, but can get enormously
windy and cold. C2 to C3 is the most technical part of the climb, with around
500 meters of vertical and near-vertical climbing on mixed rock and ice in a
region known as the "Black Pyramid." Camp 3 (7300m) At the apex of the Black Pyramid, Camp3 is conventionally
placed on the Shoulder. Although this is more horizontal terrain (approx. 30
degree snow fields), it is flat to avalanche danger and extremely high winds
funneling between K2 and Broad Peak. Reflect on stashing camp equipment just
below in the Black Pyramid; many climbers are forced to descend when they
ascertain that their C3 has been destroyed by avalanches. C3 to C4 is a long
snow slog up the Shoulder, typically accomplished without fixed lines. The primary danger in this area is the collapse of large sections of the Shoulder (you can sometimes feel the slope settling under you). Fixed lines are not going to protect you from the huge avalanches that happen when a section of the Shoulder rips, so your better off traveling fast and light. Camp 4 (8200m). Camp4, at anywhere from 7700 to 8200 meters on the
Shoulder, is still a solid 16-22 hours from the summit, so you should start
brewing instantaneously (don spend too much energy building a platform, you won稚 have time to sleep anyhow). Summit (8616m). Most climbers leave between 10 p.m and 1 a.m. for the
summit. Consider bringing a thin line (4-5mm) for the Bottleneck, a 100-meter
narrow couloir at 8300 meters that is 80-90 degrees. If it is windswept and
cold, the ice in this couloirs can create extremely challenging, sustained
climbing. At least 10 of the climbers who have died on K2 lost their lives in
the Bottleneck. DAY 53-55 BC to Hushe village. Start of the trek out, via the Vigne Glacier. A whole day
of trekking (8 hrs) through Concordia and up the Vigne Glacier, past some of the
most magnificent mountain landscape on earth. The Gondogoro La and descent to
the Hushe Valley. The Gondogoro La (5,585m) is a climb in its own precise, axes
and crampons are a must. Very rapidly after the descent we find grass, flowers
and birds - cologne and song after 6 weeks in a mountain desert. A day of
contrasts. Walk to Hushe village. A long, glorious day strolling down the
luxuriant Hushe valley. Sharp spires of perfect granite rake the sky, the fang
of Layla Peak being particularly impressive. Our last night under canvas. Drive
to Skardu.After a 7 hour drive, a hotel room with shower and soft bed awaits. DAY 56-60 Hushe to Islamabad. Jeep drive to Skardu stay over night at Hotel 2nd day costar to Chilas over night in Hotel, 3rd day drive to Islamabad, over night in
Hotel 4th day Debriefing at Ministry of tourism,
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