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Nanga Parbat “Killer Mountain” (8125m) (26,660ft)
More then 100 years ago, the
English mountaineer Albert F Mummery failed to climb Nanga Parbat, 35 years
later a series of In 1970 Rupal face descent,
Reinhold and his brother Gunter got separated. Gunter was assumed dead. Reinhold
has retuned to the mountain a number of times to search for his lost brother.
The mountain holds a special spiritual connection with him Expedition Plan itinerary DAY 1-2 Arrival
in Islamabad transfer at Hotel DAY 3 Islamabad to Chilas. Start at 5:30 from Hotel and 12 hours drive to Chilas Lunch in Besham while traveling on KKH over professional guide will explain all the archeological and historical sites and points of interest over night Hotel.
Start early in the
morning 2 hours to Buner farm and take jeep drive to end of road Over night
in tent 2nd Day trek to Juliper
6-7 Hours steep climbing to reach the camp over night in tent, enjoy with
the meadows, white
snowcaps. Lush green hell stand around you DAY 8-9 B-C. During this period preparation climbing gears and
expedition high altitude food DAY 10-14 Camp 1 (4900m). Route condition; Start at 4 a.m. early in the morning self climbing and the climbing access is normal to camp1Not required any techniques during
ascent, indeed use the
trekking pole for self aid Average time 3-4 hours (also possibilities to start after noon to
camp 1 Requirements Actually the rout is normal
and not require to fix rope or any Risks beginning is ice fall,
and avalanche DAY 15-22 Camp 2 (6000m). Route condition: Need 4 days for Mountain Guide to fixed rope to camp 2.
Start at 4 a.m. Early in the morning, the route invites the technical skills and fun, those day the mountaineer use Self-climbing and Aid climbing techniques. The climbing peach consist on Rock & Blue ice and most snow, particular face is King shoffer wall, which is solid and stand at 45 degrees. Camping place enough for 10 tents. Average time 7-8 hours depend on your
personal physical fitness Requirements use fixed rope, ice screw, rock pitons, ice axe, crampon, leaders,
Jumper, Figure of eight Risks Rock falls whole the way to camp 2. Avalanche beginning the climbing, camp 1,Rope damage when 2or 3 climber decent with one rope together DAY 23-29 Camp 3 (6600m). Route condition: Start at 5 a.m. early in the morning, The Mountain Guide require 3 days to Fixed rope Beginning camp 3 is rock and explore the snow valley reach the shoulder, as finish the rock peach then its blue ice 3-400m and after it became deep snow, The
mountaineers will use self climbing and Aid climbing The route stand on 38 degree, Camping place is
enough for 6-7 tent Average time. 6-7 hours depending on
your physical fitness Requirements. All climbing techniques and requirement are preferable. Rock pitons, ice screw, snow
bars, and fixed rope, Bamboos, etc Risks High altitude sickness. Incorrect rope fixed, technical mistakes, unfavorable weather, avalanche DAY 30-37 Camp 4 & summit (7400m-8125m). Route condition: start at 4.am. Walk traverses flow the rock blow ridge to camp 4, the mountain guide will fix the rope at the last moment, group will also assistance to belay fixed rope to them, after 3 –4 hours you will reach on flat snow slope, 1 hours walk further then
establish the camp 4 Over night in tent Ø 2nd day start at 12 a.m. at night, 11a.m. to 12 prepare meal and personal gear start at exact time, walk traverse till to approach rock bottom then traverse During the climbing your Guide will indicate or
educate you the route to summit Over night in tent Average time 5-6 hours to camp 4, 9 hours to summit long and hardest day with
all climbing route Requirements All techniques and climbing requirements will use during the climbing, Snow break one by one, Aid
climbing up to camp4 then self climbing to the top Risks Avalanche, High sickness, technical fault, however when they back from top, often the climbers loss their energy and they do lots of technical mistakes. High porters will carry down the camps, and group will take relaxation. DAY 42-46 B-C to Islamabad. Trek to Juliper
take lunch and continue to Buner form Over night at Panorama Hotel
2nd
day drive to Islamabad over night at Hotel
3rd
day
debriefing at Ministry of Tourism 4th
day
safe hand flight to home |
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Send mail to info@Shamsalpine.com with
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Garman expedition began in which 10 climbers and 15 sherpas
lost their lives, earring Nanga Parbat the name “Mountain destiny” or
“Killer mountain” in 1953 the Austrian Herman Buhl was the first to reach
the summit as a member of Garman expedition led by Karl Maria HerligKoffer. Of
its three faces: Raikot face, Diamir face, and Rupal face: the latter is the
most impressive on account of the sheer size of this rock and ice wall. On the
other hand, the North face slopes down to and amazing 7000m to Indus has leading
to the formation of its own highly unpredictable micro-climate. Though
technically the climb does not pose too many problems the wan tom weather
condition could delay matters. However the name “Killer Mountain” is also based on
the dangerous nature of Nanga Parbat, which includes the permanent risk of rock
fall. Nanga Parbat is a serious and demanding enterprise. However, not only
tragedies and climbing make Nanga Parbat one of the most attractive 8000ers but
also the beauty of magic of the “Fairy
Meadows” a little green paradise at the foot of the mountain.
DAY
