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 Broad peak “ Falchen Kangri’’ ( 8047m)  

v    History of Broad peak (8047m)

The world 11th highest mountain called Falchen Kangri situated in baltoro glacier among towered K-2 (8611m) G-4

 (7926m) clear viewed from Concordia which is junction point of Baltoro, this major Mountain has invited many climbers Mountaineers to this massive mountain range Many climbers have successes and many have loss their life, But the first ascent was 1957,Marcuse schmuck, Fritz winters teller, Kut diemberger, and Hurmenn Bhul climbed with out oxygen, Two prominent British mountaineers, Harold William Tilman and Eric Earle Shipton, explored and surveyed Baltoro glacietr,also the north face of K2  ,Broad peak and its auxiliary glaciers in 1937. Actually they were on a survey mission to Shaksgam ,Skamri valley when they also visited the Trango and Sarpo Laggo glaciers. They also explored and surveyed the famous. Baraldu glacier, lukpe la

Expedition plan itinerary

DAY   1-2   Islamabad.    Arrival in Pakistan, briefing at Ministry of tourism / Alpine club , Afternoon explore the Islamabad the Modern capital of Pakistan, visit the worlds biggest Faisal Mosque with its modern architecture, Damn-e- Koh to have the panoramic view of Islamabad and Murree hills.

DAY   3-5     Islamabad to Skardu  (2280m). 

Ø       1st day Morning after breakfast drive to Chilas, enroute visit the Taxila museum, Excavated archeological sites of Birmound, Sirkap and impressive well preserved Julian Monastery. after brief visit of the sites we continue drive to Chilas .stop for lunch, at Besham we will continue our  drive to Chilas along the Indus River passing through the green valleys in Indus Kohistan, visit the 2^nd century Rock carvings at shatial and continue drive to Chilas. Overnight hotel

Ø       2^ndAfter breakfast leave early 5;30 to Skardu its will tale 9 hrs driving, stop at Astake nala for lunch, the place really impressive and joyful for short time relaxation.

Ø        3^rd day Sightseeing. to Satpara lake  Fort of Baltistan over night in Hotel Full day for last minute preparations, Overnight at K-2 Motel. All meals included.

DAY    6   Askoli    (3000m).

Ø       After breakfast drive over the exciting jeep trek through the beautiful Shigar valley to the remote village of Askole which is the last inhabited place on this trek.  Over night in tent

DAY    7-12    Askoli to Broad peak BC   (4800M).

Ø       Ist day After breakfast 7 hours include lunch exciting trek which is considered the most challenging and panoramic trek in the world. After crossing the huge Biafo glacier trek to camp at Jhulla which s located next to the pulley cart river crossing point. Overnight in tent (3025m)

Ø       2^nd day After early breakfast, cross the river on the pulley cart and trek through the bushy forest and sandy banks of Braldu river to the green campsite of Paiju. over night in tent(3370m)

Ø       3rd  day free day in Payu, small  hiking for acclimatization on Payu  from here you will viewed the King of the mountain & Broad peak

Ø        4th  day Trek down to the river bed and reach the black snout of Baltoro glacier. After climbing the snout traverse to the right  side and climb up to the moraine Trek along the moraine of Baltoro glacier to the last green campsite of Urdukas situated on a steep slope over looking the glacier and surrounding peaks including the famous Payu peak, Hulebia, Mustagh peak, Trango Towers. Overnight in tent  at Urdukas (4050m)

Ø       5^th day Descend to the glacier and walk to the campsite of Goro located in the middle of the glacier. Enroute you will see some of the most spectacular mountains in the world including Masherbrum (7821m) and the first glimpse of the magnificent Gasherbrum-4 located near Concordia. Over night in tent at Goro 2, (4150m) chilling temperature will welcome you  it is better  to wear worm jumpers,

Ø        6^th  day after breakfast trek to K-2 BC situated at an  alleviation 5100m, Trek over ridges and around crevasses with beautiful view of Gasherbrum range and Broad peak in front. Camp near confluence of Godwin Austin and Baltoro glacier at Concordia which is surrounded by numerous mountains over seven thousand meters and four peaks over eight thousand meters. This camp site has a magnificent view of G-4 (7745m)  Mustagh tower (7655m)  K-2 (8611m), Broad peak (8047m) & the Gasherbrum ring

DAY  13-14  Rest day at BC .(4800m).

In these  days the climbers will prepare the expedition gear (Fixed Rope, ice screw, snow bar) and high altitude food

DAY 15-18   Camp 1 -B   (5500m).

Route condition: The Mountain Guide required 2 days for Fix rope. Start  the work early in the morning at  4a.m. to cross the Sovia glacier   which takes 1 up to fixed rope, The climbing route consist  rock ice and in noon water fall erupts often  Climbing of  Broad peak begin by putting your foot  the ice wall right ridge  to reach Japanese  after climbing  camp 3-400m on snow slope  you will reach Camp 1-B  just  a space of  4 – 5 Tents

Average Time: 4-5 hours steep climbing to Camp1-B

Requirements:  600m fixed rope,8 –10 Rock pitons,5-7 snow bars

Risks:   Crevasses on Sovia glacier, and Water falls ,  Rock falling unfavorable weather & avalanche

DAY  18-25 Camp 1( 6000m).

Route condition:  Start at 5.30 am  2 days to fix the rope the route is icy and large portion is  rocky  Camp one has sufficient space  for 8 –10  tents, but camp site is rocky and icy difficult to make new camping place Over nights in tent

Average Time: 3-4 Hours from Camp1-B, depending your own physical fitness

Requirements:  5-6oom Fixed rope.10-12 rock pitons very few snow bars and ice screws

Risks: Technical faults, Rock fall, Rope damages, unfavorable weathers, deep snow condition

DAY  26-33  Camp 2    (6600m).

Route condition: The Mountain Guide takes  2 days for fixed roping to Camp2,The route consist Rock and snow,  very easy to climb often the climbers are  climbing independently but it is better to fixed rope for protection, Because when its hot at noon the snow will  stick to your shoes which make your climb more difficult and the chances of accident by slipping is increased

Campsite enough for  as many as  you wish to pitches Over night in tent

Average Time: 4-5 hours hard walk, also depends your own health progress

Requirements: 5-600m 8mm Fixed rope, 6-7 Rock pitons, 4 snow bars, Bamboos particularly on wide snow slope for signaling during bad weather

Risks: Technical mistakes, incorrect fixed rope, Height sickness, 

DAY  34- 41 Camp 3 (7400m) Summit ( 8047m ).

Route condition: start at 5:30 traverses to the right hand ridge, climbing up the rock-strewn pitches to the left end of the rope Here you will find a snow slope  effortless to ascent to camp 3, Although its looks easy but deep snow and  it is  hard to break. Over night to camp 3 (7400m). Next day continue to summit Start at 12 mid night for the  longest and hardest day, First take a deep look at  the route weather ,Snow condition and time to reach the Colwa  here the ice is blue  and area is rocky, when you reach the top climb to the right hand, this is the first summit often the climber  came back from first Summit, But the main summit is 1-2 Hours far ( direction is towards G-4)  

Average Time:  9-10 hours, mostly these day

Requirements:  Take 200m ropes to fixed blow the Colwa. ,4-5 ice screws,5-7 Rock pitons, and few snow bars

Risks:  Height sickness. Storms weather, technical faults, Avalanche,

DAY 44-44  BC during the period high porters will carry down climbing. gears,                                                                                       

DAY 45-47  BC to Hushe village.

Ø       Start of the trek out, via the Vigne Glacier. A whole day of trekking (8 hrs) through Concordia and up the Vigne Glacier, leave behind  some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on earth. The Gondogoro La and descent to the Hushe Valley. The Gondogoro La (5,600m)  which has its own climbing toll  axes and crampons are  must. Very soon after the descent we find grass, flowers and birds –the fragrance and music which is essence of life, 6 weeks in a mountain desert. A day of contrasts. Walk to Hushe village. A long, glorious day strolling downs the verdant Hushe valley. Sharp spires of perfect granite rake the sky, the fang of Layla Peak being particularly impressive. Our last night under canvas. Drive to Skardu. After a 7-hour drive, a hotel room with shower and soft bed waits.       

DAY  48-52    Hushe to Islamabad.

Jeep drive to Skardu stay over night at Hotel

2^nd day costar to Chilas over night in  Hotel,

3^rd day drive to Islamabad, over night in Hotel

4^th day Debriefing at Ministry of tourism,

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Last modified: November 08, 2005